October 17, 2024: When a documentary series premieres, it’s often easy to tell whether the producers were able to secure the “big names” or had to settle for lesser-known personalities. In the case of In Vogue: The 90s, Disney+’s documentary series on the transformative 1990s fashion scene, only the top of the tops will suffice. Within just the first five minutes, you’re greeted by an ensemble cast of the most prestigious celebrities, designers, and supermodels—each more recognisable and influential than the last.
How did the producers manage to pull in such a lineup of industry titans? The answer lies in one name: Anna Wintour, Vogue’s long-standing editor-in-chief and the driving force behind the six-part series. Executive produced by Wintour herself, alongside other fashion heavyweights like Hamish Bowles, Edward Enninful, and Tonne Goodman, In Vogue: The 90s offers an insider’s look into a decade that changed fashion forever. As Wintour’s influence looms over the industry, so does her legendary ability to get what she wants—and, as the documentary reveals, when Wintour is involved, “no” isn’t an option.
Also Read: Sweet Bobby: Netflix’s Shocking True Crime Catfishing Documentary-Review
Also Read: Love is Blind: Habibi Edition – Opulence With a Tradition Mindset-Review
The series begins in the late 1980s with Wintour’s rise to editor-in-chief of American Vogue, exploring the seismic shift in the magazine’s direction under her leadership. Through glossy magazine covers, exclusive interviews, and stunning archival footage, the series charts the evolution of fashion throughout the 90s—from the birth of supermodel culture to the gritty rise of grunge, and from the revival of high-glamour at Gucci to the fusion of hip hop and haute couture.
A Who’s Who of Fashion’s Elite
What sets In Vogue: The 90s apart from other documentaries is its star-studded roster. Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Linda Evangelista, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Sarah Jessica Parker are just a few of the iconic figures featured. Each episode dissects the most pivotal fashion moments of the decade, narrated by those who lived it. Naomi Campbell reflects on the genesis of the “supermodel” phenomenon, while Tom Ford details Gucci’s bold revival. From the rise of grunge to the infamous Versace safety-pin dress worn by Elizabeth Hurley, In Vogue: The 90s doesn’t miss a beat.
Cultural Shifts and Fashion’s Evolution
One of the series’ strengths is its focus on how fashion both shaped and was shaped by the cultural moments of the time. The merging of Hollywood and high fashion is seen through moments like Gwyneth Paltrow’s bubblegum-pink Oscars dress and Elizabeth Hurley’s head-turning Versace moment at the Four Weddings and a Funeral premiere. Hip hop’s influence on fashion is also prominently featured, with the documentary exploring how artists like Missy Elliott helped usher in a new era of urban chic.
Yet, it’s the focus on the rise of individual designers that offers some of the most compelling insights. John Galliano, Stella McCartney, and Alexander McQueen are highlighted for their groundbreaking contributions to high fashion, while the shockwaves caused by Marc Jacobs’ grunge collection at Perry Ellis is revisited in detail. Jacobs’ radical designs, initially dismissed by many in the industry, are now seen as an essential turning point that cemented grunge’s place in fashion history.
Criticism and Reflection
However, while In Vogue: The 90s is undeniably glamorous and compulsively watchable, it doesn’t delve too far beneath the surface. Many of the juiciest stories and behind-the-scenes dramas are glossed over in favor of reinforcing Vogue’s brand as the ultimate authority in fashion. Though the documentary touches on important issues like the AIDs crisis and the damaging body standards of the 90s, these segments often feel like afterthoughts, without the full accountability that the topics deserve.
The series also stumbles when it comes to offering new insights. For fashion enthusiasts and insiders, In Vogue: The 90s may feel like a retelling of stories they’ve already heard, albeit through a shinier, more nostalgic lens. While the archival footage and high-profile interviews are fascinating, the series sometimes feels more like a tribute to Wintour’s reign than a true deep dive into the industry’s challenges and transformations.
Conclusion
Despite its flaws, In Vogue: The 90s is an essential watch for fashion lovers. It’s a captivating, star-packed nostalgia trip that offers a rare glimpse behind the scenes of one of the most iconic fashion decades. Juicy, gossipy, and at times, a little self-indulgent, the series captures the magic and chaos of the 90s, all while reminding us of Anna Wintour’s unmatched influence. While it may not break new ground, it’s a fabulous time capsule of a fashion era that still resonates today.
